A quick and dirty jig holds the face frame stock so that the dove-tail pins can be cut

 

I make all my face-frame stock over length. After cutting one end square on the table-saw, I clamp the square end in the jig. I am looking for a flush fit, level with the top of the jig. I do this using my fingers rather than fussing with a straight-edge. Then I cut the dovetail using a laminate trimmer and a dove-tail router bit set to cut 3/8th inches deep. Running the base of the router tight against the temporary fence clamped to the horizontal top, I cut one face of the pin. Then, flipping ithe stock around and re-clamping it  in the jig, I cut the other side of the dovetail with a second pass of the router. The photo above shows the finished dove-tail.

 

To achieve the best fit in the case opening, I start by cutting dove-tails on only one end of the face frame. The dove-tail notch is just deep enough to allow the shoulder of the dove-tail to fit snuggly against the case side. After aligning the stock with the drawer divider underneath, I mark the location of the opposite side of the case on the stock with a small knife. I add 3/8 inch to this marked out distance to allow for the dove-tail I am about to cut on the over length stock. I carefully cross-cut the face frame to the pencil line I've drawn. After cutting the dove-tail using the jig, I fit the rail in the case. If I have done a good job measuring and cutting, the notches on the dove-tails will snap in place in the case opening with out a lot of force.

 

More tomorrow. Thanks for stopping by. STB